The nose of Zilliken’s 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese A.P. #1, which will be auctioned, acts like vinous smelling salts. Candied pineapple, apricot jam and lemon oil are prominent in the nose, and those themes – along with tropical and dried and caramelized pit fruits, lemon meringue, and fresh grapefruit – are carried onto a palate of eszencia-like viscosity and glyceral richness. Yet this wine is not in the least cuddly or plush, it’s formidably dense to the point of firmness and is not the least bit heavy but rather delicate and soaring.Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463