The 2013 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, raised in one-third new oak, has a tightly-wound bouquet that takes time to unfold in the glass, reluctantly offering brambly red berry fruit, citrus lemon and overripe Clementine. The palate is crisp and linear, vivacious tart cherry fruit infused with sour lemon, focused though without the depth of the 2012. But it feels persistent on the finish that leaves the tongue tingling with Szechuan pepper. Very fine.