The estate’s 2007 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Pithos is made in a richer style than the straight Cerasuolo. Sweet candied cherries, herbs and flowers emerge from this plump, juicy Cerasuolo. The wine’s inner sweetness balances notes of the salinity on the round, enveloping finish. Pithos is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato vinified in terra cotta. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. This is a fabulous set of new releases from COS, one of Sicily’s leading producers.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

This is a difficult wine to understand, with a very specific philosophy behind it. Light, elegant and ethereal, the 60-40 blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato is aged in terracotta amphorae in a studied attempt to present as pure a product as nature allows. It offers loads of bright fruit, wild berries, earth, spice and impressive complexity.——M.L.(5/1/2010)—— 91