A solid Shiraz, Wolf Blass’s Presidents Selection offers refined scents of pencil shavings, black currants and caramel. It’s a wine with admirable purity of flavor, the blackberry and cassis fruit cleanly framed by vanilla-laden oak. Picks up a slightly brambly, briary edge on the finish. Drink now–2012. ——J.C.(2/1/2007)—— 89