This wine’s winning nose had wide appeal, with tea, leather, rose, cinnamon and root beer accents on lively cherry fruit. But tasters differed about the rest: Some felt the wine failed to deliver on the promise, turning dry and lean, too leathery and tangy. To others the ripe feel, handsomely-accented sweet fruit and long finish were excellent. ——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 88