The 2008 Chardonnay Conner Lee Vineyard, one of Washington’s finest sites for this varietal, is light gold-colored with a bouquet of mineral, poached pear, white peach, hazelnuts, and tropical notes. On the palate it is intense, dry, vibrant, steely, and altogether Grand Cru Chablis-like. Give it 2-3 years to fully blossom and drink it through 2018. Caleb Foster, partner and winemaker of Buty Winery, is in a groove, making consistently high quality wines vintage after vintage. www.butywinery.com

One quarter of this wine went through malolactic, and it retains a riveting acidity. Pineapple and citrus fruit is wrapped in rock. It’s very young and tight, but along with sharp lime and citrus come fleshier stone fruit flavors and hints of melon and caramel. Give this plenty of breathing time, or decant it. ——P.G.(3/1/2010)—— 92