The 2009 Chardonnay Conner Lee Vineyard from one of Washington’s top sites for this varietal sports a nose of intense minerals, poached pear, melon, and a hint of tropical fruits. Made in an elegant, racy style, it will continue to blossom for 3-4 years and drink well for a decade or more. Caleb Foster, the vigneron responsible for Buty, is on top of his game as these wines demonstrate. www.butywinery.com

Fermented in neutral Burgundian oak, this is crisp and stylish, and brings in tart Asian pear, jicama and white peach. Flavors are clean and razor sharp. No alterations, additions, or finings are employed—this is as noninterventionist as it gets.——P.G.(5/1/2011)—— 92