Kalin has just released their first Chardonnay of the 1990 vintage, the Cuvee DD. It is a rich, well-knit wine with reserves of fruit and body, and an unevolved yet promising bouquet of lemony/apple blossom, subtle, nutty fruit, followed by a wine with considerable richness and definition. As with so many of Kalin's Chardonnays, it can be expected to last for up to a decade.It would seem illogical that a full-time microbiologist, who is working part-time out of a warehouse in Novato, produces some of California's most profound and long-lived wines. But that is what winemaker Terry Leighton has achieved. Leighton's reference points are French wines, and he stands nearly alone in the Golden State when it comes to producing Chardonnays that require considerable cellaring. Most California Chardonnays drop their fruit by the time they are three years of age. Kalin's Chardonnays do not begin to open until they are four or five.