Loosen’s 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese hasn’t the impressive sheer delicacy of some other wines in its company, and whereas the corresponding Kabinett was especially striking for its lack of perceived sweetness, this Treppchen is the sweetest-tasting of any of this year’s Loosen Spatlesen. While it lacks the deep-seated richness of the corresponding Wehlener or uncanny balance of the Urziger, it is nonetheless pure, lusciously citric and melony, suffused with high-toned herbal essences, and finishes with satisfying spice and hints of site-typical smokiness. It no doubt needs longer to emerge out from under its residual sugar than do its nearest siblings and should perform well for 15 or more years. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage’s collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes to residually sweet Kabinett – a genre in which Loosen has long excelled – his frequently-voiced concerns that “the real thing” was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and feather-light. Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre – while consisting of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat – is superb. What’s more, even cellarmaster Bernard Schug voiced his amazement at just how little sweetness most of the residually sweet wines display.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Plump and juicy, with racy acidity driving the jellied citrus and apricot notes. A latent mineral element sits under the surface, playing a more integral role on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2024.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

This wine is a shining example of the glorious minerality that singles out Mosel Riesling. The nose shows really appealing pear and gardenia scents overlaying wet stone notes. The mouthwatering acidity wakes up your palate and is in perfect balance with the substantial residual sugar. Drink now (with sushi) or hold five or more years for even more complexity. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 91