The Loosen 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese is richer, yet more delicate than the corresponding Kabinett, suggesting herbal liqueur, honeydew melon, and lusciously ripe citrus on a succulent, buoyant palate and with a delightfully persistent, infectiously juicy finish that introduces hints of nut oils and salted caramel. There should be 25 years of potential pleasure packed into bottles of this. “I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Ripe and silky, delivering a floral aroma and peach cobbler, apricot and white berry flavors, with hints of chocolate. The mouthfilling finish is juicy and fresh. Drink now through 2020.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

The wines from Erden are almost always stars in the Loosen stable, and this 2009 spatlese is no exception. It’s sweet and lush, with ripe cherry-berry notes balanced by fresh limes and a chaser of crushed stone. Long and balanced, suitable for contemplative sipping or partnering slightly spicy or sweet dishes. ——J.C.(6/1/2011)—— 91