The Kruger-Rumpf 2006 Munsterer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett is Mosel-like in its delicacy and Mittelrhein-like in its saline and stony (apparently quartzite-induced) mineral character. There is some of the drippingly ripe musk melon of so many 2006s, along with fresh, mint-tinged apple and grapefruit in a crisp, juicy finish. Stefan Rumpf’s collections may still – as I wrote of it previously – be “sprawling ... at times hit and miss.” But his aim becomes ever more accurate. (Son Johannes is now intimately involved.) This year, the Rumpfs decided to take advantage of their enhanced acreage of a variety that they would probably have given up on ten years ago had it not been for their importer, and bottle a dry Scheurebe. The timing was perfect, because not only did this estate make some of the only noteworthy Scheurebe of the vintage, but in the Pfalz – even when growers are not challenged as they were in 2006 – Scheurebe is more and more getting marginalized as a “supplemental variety,” destined solely for some of that region’s rare wine of residual sweetness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300