If there’s a single common element in the wine’s from the Pisoni Vineyard, it’s a hint of the untamed woods—underbrush, or in this case a peppery mushroominess—accompanied by lush fruit. Creamy, supple and richly textured in the mouth, this microproduction wine (127 cases) is worth seeking out.——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 90