Effusively and sweetly fruity as usual, the 2009 Morgon Jean Descombes (tasted from tank) is scented with creme de cassis, black raspberry preserves and pear liqueur; silkenly saturates the palate with rich yet infectiously juicy fruit concentrate; and introduces a saline note that along with its sense of juicy freshness makes for a stimulating finish. This perennially outstanding value will probably pick up more complexity over the next 12-18 months and be worth following for at least twice that long. (That said, in the form of La Chaponne and Mont Chavy, Jean Descombes has, for a change, got serious competition in this vintage from within the Duboeuf portfolio.) The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Light tannins and a smoky mineral note frame this lush red, which displays layers of black cherry, raspberry ganache and tea rose flavors. A spicy thread runs through the wine, leading to a fresh, firm finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases made.??–AN??Region: France / Beaujolais / Morgon Select to Add

Lean and tannic, this is a tough wine, its tannins dominating the underlying juicy fruit. It has power, with a firm and dry texture. Give it 2–3 years to develop. ——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 89