Busch’s 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett displays lovely scents and flavors of nectarine, blood orange, and honey. Quite sweet and subtly creamy and sorbet-like, but with a delightful lightness of touch as well as sheer, luscious juiciness, its honeyed, spicy, finish confirms the presence of botrytis even as it displays further lift and refinement. Hints of vanilla custard and nut oils – as well as a distinct sense of wet slate, despite its sheer ripeness and sweetness – put me in mind of two of my all-time favorite vintages, 1975 and 1966. This remarkable wine – of which there were 2,000 liters – can I am sure (and depending on how much sweetness you want it to shed) charm over at least the next 20 years.Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312