The estate’s 2007 Ateo is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot now that the Sangiovese has been eliminated from the blend. Although the wine is made from international varieties here those grapes speak with a distinctly Tuscan accent. Plummy dark fruit leads to sweet herbs, spices, earthiness and minerals as this rich, deep wine opens up in the glass. This is one of the few 2007s that will actually benefit from another year or so in bottle. It is gorgeous stuff! Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has turned out a gorgeous set of wines. In 2005 Bianchini elected to forgo his top Brunello, Pianrosso, and bottle just his straight Brunello, which has all of the best fruit he was able to bring in that year. The result speaks for itself. I also tasted a number of Brunellos in cask from vintages 2006 through 2008 that appear quite promising. As good as the Brunellos are, value-conscious readers will want to pay special attention to Ciacci’s entry-level wines, which are just as noteworthy. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

This is a beautiful red blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Montalcino subzone of Sant’Antimo (where super Tuscan wines are made) with light mineral dustings that show delicately over a solid core of black fruit and exotic spice. The mouthfeel is bright and polished.——M.L.(8/1/2010)—— 90