The Nikolaihof 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge picks up on the plum distillate and plum pit note of its Federspiel counterpart, but represents in every other respect a complete change of subject and style. Honey, cress, lentil, and subtle woodsy and faintly oxidative notes from cask inform the nose. At 13.5% alcohol, this evinces a surprising if slight hint of heat, but with that comes an attractive sense of fullness, and this finishes long on richness and deep notes of tobacco, lentil, plum pit, and peat. Nikolaus Saahs followed up his amazing 2006 collection with more than suitable successors (although the top Rieslings of 2007 - following usual Nikolaihof practice - will only be unveiled this year or next, and could not yet be reviewed). As is frequently the case at this passionately biodynamic address, the Saahs family is happy to point out that they finished harvesting fully ripe fruit - early October - before some area growers had probably even begun.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A fine, dry combination of richness and freshness, with intense green fruits, showing some spice but mostly a pure line of acidity, ripeness and a tight edge of apple skins. There is a great, juicy finish, clean and fresh.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 91