The 2006 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Beerenauslese is almost overwhelmingly rich; decadently, opulently ripe, and buttery in texture, featuring caramelized peach, grilled pineapple, malt, and honey; yet displays enormous energy and bright, luscious, sappy, citric intensity. Bitter-sweet grapefruit marmalade, peach kernel, cherry put, and smoldering wood add piquancy to the finishing flow of fruit preserves, honey, caramel, and pineapple juice. Plan to enjoy this at 12-25 years of age.
Muller-Catoir’s vineyards were twice ravaged by hail, so a small harvest was guaranteed even before the roller-coaster of 2006 temperatures and precipitation was taken into account. Martin Franzen followed the long-standing tradition at this address of labor-intensive green harvest, selectivity, and unwillingness to compromise, in this case in the face of rapidly encroaching botrytis that – as he readily admits – rapdily turned ignoble. The upshot is a largely successful collection, much-reduced number, generally late-assembled but early (March)-bottled.
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300.
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