The 2008 Pinot Noir Abetina Vineyard is from a parcel planted in 1975 to 20 different clones. On the palate it is already complex with hints of white pepper and licorice melding with savory black cherry and black raspberry flavors. It has more depth of flavor than the Aurora bottling as well as greater volume and length. It merits 3-4 years of additional cellaring and should be at its best from 2013 to 2023, perhaps longer. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

This two-acre site dates back to 1975; this is only the fourth time that Ponzi has offered it as a designate. Muscular and authoritative, it is still compact and somewhat unyielding. Dark cherry and cassis fruit is packed with iron filings, coffee grounds and black licorice. Winemaker Luisa Ponzi does her usual excellent job of putting the polish on outstanding fruit. Give it another decade and it will show its best. ——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 93