Pineapple, apple, and grapefruit on the nose of Weins-Prum’s 2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese lead to a correspondingly bright, invigorating palate on which residual CO2 and the impingement of citrus zest, salt, and stone add animation invigoration. (The actual acidity here is not significantly higher than in the other Weins-Prum Kabinetts and Spatlesen of this vintage.) The extra energy is especially welcome in Riesling from this site because a subtle, complimentary creaminess as well as low-toned nut oil richness are simultaneously conveyed. Wafting hints of honeysuckle, heliotrope, and lily-of-the-valley add allure to this candidate for 15 or more years of enjoyment. Bert Selbach is another of those Mosel traditionalists for whom the opportunities afforded by the 2008 vintage to achieve low-alcohol, delicate wines was welcome, and the results are classics of their types, at the highly-affordable prices that always characterize this frequently under-rated estate.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463