The Freisa grape is regaining much of its past glory and deservedly so. This grape is said to be a distant cousin of Nebbiolo, and you might guess as much given the structure and depth that it offers. Fabio Alessandria endearingly calls Freisa the "country cousin of Nebbiolo." His family's 2016 Langhe Freisa is a terrific wine. It offers an accessible personality and loads of individual character with elements that are both rustic and raw. If you are a fan of Italy's indigenous grapes—as I am—you will find this wine irresistible. It delivers an important tannic structure with blue fruit, natural spice and dried apricot.