Just about any French vineyard owner will talk terroir given the opportunity, but no one argues the case for terroir more passionately than Marcel Deiss. Should any readers be traveling to Alsace, Deiss is definitely a man worth visiting. All of his wines exhibit distinctive personalities. Riesling is king at the Deiss estate, although I note my highest ratings are often awarded to his other wines. Nevertheless, these Rieslings are classics in the austere, dry, mineral-dominated style. Although slightly superior to the 1992, the 1993 Riesling Altenberg is also closed. The wine is bigger-boned, with greater fruit, ripeness, and intensity. The citrusy/lemony/orange peel nose intertwined with scents of minerals is followed by a medium-bodied wine with gorgeously proportioned, razor sharp flavors, and a dry, authoritative finish. This is a Riesling that will last for 10-15+ years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083