The 2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a little more forward than I would have expected in this vintage. It reveals a somewhat rustic expression of dark fruit, leather, spices and tar, with qualities that suggest that the fruit will fade before the structure softens. This blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Canaiolo spent 18 months in French and Slavonian oak. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620