A Crusius 2008 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Kabinett is at once overtly sweeter, creamier in texture, and more pronounced in its expression of fresh fruit acidity than the corresponding Kirschheck. Cassis, purple plum, and fresh apple lusciously inform a palate that preserves admirable refreshment in its finish. But the mineral allure (replaced here by a wet stone note) as well as the striking delicacy of the Kirschheck are missing. Still, this will be worth following for 4-6 years, during which its sweetness and acidity may well come into a more dynamic balance. Peter Crusuis’s 2008 collection reflects the soft, sometimes slightly diffuse profile of wines at this address – not just in years with botrytis – which reinforces the gently soothing side of the vintage. Crusius has shown readiness to selectively let wines undergo malolactic transformation or to de-acidify wine or must, and according to him, Anybody who tells you he didn’t de-acidity any Riesling in 2008 is lying. The harvest did not really get going in all seriousness here until November, and while – in Crusius words – I like to be able to draw a line under the vintage at year’s end, I made an exception, and January pickings extended the crop’s Eiswein count to an unprecedented four.Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500