The 2010 Chardonnay Bee Block is another rich wine, but there is so much depth to the fruit that wine’s structural components are nearly buried. Apricot, mango and honey flesh out in this radiant, totally expressive Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay. The Bee Block stands apart for its mid-palate density and sheer depth. This is a great showing from the Varner brothers. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Brothers Jim and Bob Varner describe 2010 as a cold year with two heat spikes that were shorter and less dramatic than in other parts of California. It was a long growing season, and the fruit came in 2-3 weeks later than normal. As always, the Varner and Neely wines were fermented in barrel, with native yeasts, natural fermentation and minimal handling. These broad-shouldered Chardonnays and deep, resonant Pinots remain some of the most compelling wines being made in California. Tel. (650) 321-4894; www.varnerwine.com