I might have thought there was oak on this wine, it’s so rich and vanilla-smoky, but there isn’t. Just goes to show. It’s dramatic in rich peach, fig, date and ripe green melon, but where does all that butterscotch and creme brulee come from? The grapes come from a single Beckstoffer-owned vineyard in Rutherford.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 90