Duboeuf's 1995 Domaine du Moulin a Vent is the only wine of this group to reveal some sexy, vanillin, smoky new oak in its personality. A dark ruby/purple-colored wine with excellent black-cherry fruit, full body, and outstanding concentration, this is a mouthfilling, generously-endowed, boldly-styled Beaujolais that should drink well for 5-6 years. Certainly it could easily be inserted in a blind tasting with $35-$50 a bottle premiers crus from Burgundy. I would not be surprised to see it show exceptionally well.Late-released 1995 Beaujolais from the king of that region, Georges Duboeuf, the offerings reviewed in this section possess slightly more intensity and fullness than the early-released wines that were reviewed in issue #105. They are fine bargains that offer 2-3 years of drinkability, and in the case of fuller, more powerful styles, 4-5 years.Importers: William Deutsch, Armonk, NY; tel. (914) 273-1221 and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (708) 679-0121

The backward Flower Label Moulin a Vent's tart, crisp acidity makes its presence known. There is a muscular, medium-bodied, concentrated palate, and a closed, firm, structured finish. This wine requires 1-2 years of cellaring, and it should keep for 5-7 years. Georges Duboeuf's wines are represented on the East Coast by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., Armonk, NY; tel. (914) 273-1221, fax (914) 273-1291, and on the West Coast by Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL,; tel (708) 679-0121, fax (708) 679-2017.