The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella is a sumptuous, richly-textured wine imbued with notable class in its layers of ripe dark fruit. Despite its depth and richness, the wine shows notable clarity. The style is quite concentrated but the level of sweetness is restrained. Pretty notes of cocoa, espresso and tobacco linger on the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

This is an inky, black Amarone that is redolent of black fruit, plum, BBQ sauce, root beer and mesquite smoke. Pair this wine with thick beef ragout over oven-roasted pasta or game dishes. The wine is sticky and ripe in the mouth with firm tannins. ——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 90