The 2005 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter delivers aromas of blackberry, smoked meat, and walnut, making for a pleasantly bitter, rather Cabernet Franc-like cast. Juicy, faintly bitter and salty, with subtle tart black fruit and walnut oil on the palate, this clings with a tart, bitter-sweet cast and striking salinity. There will be plenty of rewards for anyone who takes this wine through its paces at the dinner table. And it may gain over a couple of years in bottle, but will, I suspect, be best drunk within 3-4 years.Velich's 2006 reds look to be at least as successful as his 2004s, but I shall report on them only as a group, after all have been bottled. His 2005 Blaufrankisch collection testifies to the quality that was possible in a rain-plagued vintage, if one had well-drained and -ventilated soils, was prepared to wait on this late-ripening variety, and exercised stringent selection and impeccable vinification. All of the wines weighed in at under 13% alcohol (a few lots were lightly chaptalized) but do not taste deficient in ripeness.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com.