The Moric 2006 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter (based largely on fruit from the Bodegraben vineyard and young vines in various parts of the Hochberg) already delivers in the nose what have come to seem Neckenmarkt-typical, pronouncedly- and sweetly-pungent Szechuan pepper and fresh black fruits. Bright and firm on the palate and with a palpable sense of extract, it reveals marrow-like, sweet, deep meatiness, hints of cocoa powder, salt, and lead pencil, leading into an insistent, subtly tart yet ripe and lip-smacking finish. As this opens in the glass over an hour’s time, it becomes increasingly nuanced, reflecting the fascinating personalities that each of its geologically and micro-climatically distinct lots displayed in cask. I suspect it will become more winsome over the coming year and that it will hold well for at least 4-5 years. Roland Velich’s Moric project (about which I have written extensively in issues 160 and 177) becomes more exciting by the year, and the 2007 and 2008 vintages will each mark the inception in bottle of new wines involving the re-discovery of forgotten sites and old vines, including a joint Blaufrankisch project with Hannes Schuster in Zagersdorf, whose 2007 debut was quite exciting from cask. Also beginning with the 2007 vintage, incidentally, Velich tentatively envisions a regional blend incorporating some Zweigelt as his introductory level wine.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com