The 2008 Chardonnay Grand Estates was barrel-fermented in a combination of new and seasoned French and American where it went through malolactic and was aged sur lie with weekly batonnage for 9 months. Consider the labor and expense of doing this for 8000 barrels (200,000 cases) of a wine that sells for only $11 a bottle. It is medium straw-colored with a nose of pear and apple. On the palate it has a solid core of fruit, integrated oak, a smooth texture, and spicy flavors. Drink this excellent value over the next 1-2 years. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

A fuller, richer, more broadly fruity version of the winery’s Two Vines offering, this crowd-pleasing Chardonnay slathers the palate with buttery brioche, apple and Asian pear. A little more acidity would help; give it a chill to compensate.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 86