Nice now at 5–plus years in the bottle, with fully resolved tannins making the wine softly creamy in the mouth. The fruit is beginning to fall out, leaving a dry herbaceousness to the departing blackberries and cherries, which are fusing with the sweet vanillins of oak. Shows real elegance of structure, but it’s all downhill from here, so drink up.——S.H.(3/1/2010)—— 90