Lean and austere, with loads of muscle, structure, and earthy, meaty characteristics intermixed with red and black fruits is the 2004 Syrah Donna’s. It will benefit from another year or two of bottle age, and should drink well for a decade. Tel. (805) 735-7030

Made more in a Cotes-du-Rhone style than Northern Rhone, even though it’s all Syrah, this wine is medium-bodied and gentle, with approachable blackberry, cherry, cedar and milk chocolate flavors. It’s almost jammy, but rich tannins and brisk acidity make it a serious red wine.——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 90