The 2012 Vosne-Romanee Villages has a gently perfumed nose with sous-bois scents infusing the dark-cherry fruit – quite earthy compared to its peers. The palate is a little aggressive on the entry: quite bold tannins, assertive and structured, although it lacks a little fleshiness toward the finish. Drink 2015-2021. Located in the heart of Vosne, adjacent to the original Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, lies Domaine Regis Forey. Regis’ great-grandfather by the same name founded the domaine in 1840 and the current Regis at the helm took over the 4.5 hectares of vineyard in 1987. In my experience, the wines have been traditionally made, but generally well-crafted. He also is one of the handful of producers who make a Les Gaudichots from a parcel of vines planted in 1930. These samples had been in bottle for one month. (Readers should note that a retrospective of Forey’s wines is in the pipeline.) Importer: Neal Rosenthal, New York, NY; www.madrose.com