Wine consumers often forget just how brilliant Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon can be as the area is far more renowned for its old vine Shiraz and Grenache, but they should take a look at the 2004 Aphrodite, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% new Taransaud barrels. This inky/blue/purple-hued, sexy Cabernet offers a glorious perfume of graphite, creme de cassis, smoke, and vanillin. Full-bodied and stunningly rich, with terrific purity, headiness, and laser-like definition as well as precision, this is a remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon that would turn heads even among Bordeaux first growths. It is a 30 year wine that should hit its peak in 4-5 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

A manageable 14.5% alcohol, Two Hands’ flagship Cab has dark aromas with a ribbon of raspberry jam running through them. The palate is heavy on bitter chocolate and wood, again, with lifted red fruit peeking through. This is a very good wine overall, but not one that’s long enough, or deep enough, to reach that next level. ——D.T.(10/1/2006)—— 89