This vineyard-designate Barbaresco delivers evolved notes of exotic spice, black fruit, tar, asphalt and black peppercorn. That’s not to say it’s all brawn and muscle: delicate aromas of white cherry and violets are laced throughout. It’s a bit thorny and raw in the mouth and needs a few more years to find balance. Drink 2012–2018.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 91