The 2003 Sammarco (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese) presents a gorgeously ripe, jammy nose along with licorice, cassis, smoke, earthiness, grilled herbs and sweet dark fruit nuances that flow from the glass. Full-bodied and long on the palate, it is a massively structured effort that should drink well to age 20, perhaps longer. Only the hard, drying tannins on the finish keep the score from going higher. The 2003 is the first vintage of Sammarco that adds a small percentage of Merlot to the blend. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. High-density vineyards, biodynamic farming and low yields are the hallmarks of the wines of Castello dei Rampolla, located in the prestigious Conca d’Oro in Panzano. Despite its elegant name Castello di Rampolla is a small, family-run property with a decidedly artisanal approach to working in both the vineyards and the cellar. The estate produces big, concentrated wines with imposing tannic structures that have proven to be extremely ageworthy. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200