Geantet’s 2005 Marsannay Champs Perdrix displays baked cherry, nutmeg and smoke – altogether like cherry pie – in the nose. Its clear, sweet fruit and chalk and marrow underpinnings carry to a satisfyingly long, sweetly-fruited and spicy finish. Vincent Geantet as usual bottled well before year’s end, and his wines seemed to be having a particularly expressive, fruit-filled day when I tasted. Interestingly, much as he bottles all of his wines together, so, Geantet’s barrel regimen is the same regardless of appellation: one-third each of new, one-year and two-year wood. He prolonged the pre-fermentative maceration to eight days, which seems to have enhanced the brightness of fruit exhibited by these wines. I must say I did not come prepared for quite such an impressive collection as that which Geantet delivered. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722 9228