The estate’s 2004 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Toni is sumptuous in its richly-textured expression of dark fruit. Medium in body, it offers outstanding balance and a long, fresh finish. This gorgeous Montepulciano should continue to drink well for another seven to eight years, if not longer. It spent 18 months in French oak and another 18 months in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Evident notes of beef broth, red beet and natural rubber come forth, making it difficult to identify the wine’s natural fruit. The wine has a thick, succulent feel with chewy, sour tannins. ——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 84