From Rumpf’s parcel in a well-known but long-neglected steep site just across the Nahe in Rheinhessen comes his 2004 Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spatlese trocken, which smells fascinatingly of peach, parsnip and wood smoke. A voluminous, sappy, resinous, smoky palate and finish are startlingly large-scaled and forceful, while still remaining clear in its finishing fruit. Even the slight touch of heat fits the wine’s personality and doesn’t mar the finish. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300