The Richter 2006 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett is remarkable on paper for its nearly ten grams of acidity and correspondingly high 70 grams of residual sugar. As with a number of Richter 2006s, too, I sense that there is a significant component of tart malic acidity here. The overall effect is of tart apple and bright lemon in tension with the high sugar, and an invigorating if slightly strident finish in which there is plenty of set stone slate character. This reminds me of a good, dense Riesling from the sort of genuine “Kabinett” vintage we used to experience prior to 1988 (in 1987 or 1981, for instance). Let this settle down for at least a few years, although I think it could prove quite a bit more interesting, and should last for at least a decade. (A Kabinett from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr also displayed a bright “kick” of citrus and tart apple, with a slightly bitter finish; those from the Braunberger Juffer and Veldenzer Elisenberg degrees of disharmony and botrytis bitterness.) “My minmum must weight was 100,” says Dirk Richter, almost in tones of exasperation, rendering it hard to craft lighter-weight wines, particularly at the restrained levels of residual sugar that usually characterize his estate. Some of Richter’s dry-tasting wines had difficulty coming to terms with their alcohol, and as he was the first to admit, in 2006 this could happen even with “feinherb” wines of more than 15 grams residual sugar. He wasn’t able to get his full picking crew (mostly Poles) in place until October 10, and many of this years wines appeared to struggle with the rougher aspects of botrytis and/or the effects of having tried to remove their taint from the musts. “We ended up just leaving the grapes hanging in some parcels,” says this veteran, “which is something I have never experienced.” (Incidentally, Richter and his importer appear to have collaborated in lowering his prices in the U.S. market for this vintage, despite the weak dollar.)Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

Ripe and tropical, this exhibits tangy mandarin orange, pineapple and lemon candy flavors. It's all up front now, with the firm structure taking over by the finish. This needs time to integrate. Best from 2009 through 2022. 400 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add