A 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett – from a distinctive site actually located high above Bernkastel, and left unadjusted by Richter despite its analytically high 9.1 grams of acidity – should benefit from 4-6 years of bottle age (and last at least twice that long). Its not having been de-acidified almost certainly contributes to its focus. Lemon, apple, grapefruit, and gooseberry are so persistently bright it makes one imagine this must be a great source of vitamin C. Zesty, chewy fruit skin and wet stone mark the finish. “We had the November weather in October, and the lovely October weather in November,” says Dirk Richter of 2008, thereby essentially explaining his harvest strategy. He ameliorated acidity through skin contact; nature helped by precipitating tartrates; and nonetheless, some wines were de-acidified already as must. Richter is pleased to characterize the results as “classic Mosel Rieslings,” and since Richter spends a great deal of time promoting his wines in the U.S. I am happy to be able to concur in that description, even if some of his 2008s are only modestly successful. Richter admits that this collection is likely at least for the short term to be overshadowed by those on either side of it, but speculates that the 2008s will have their day if given time.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800