The 2004 Barolo is a big, powerful wine. Today it comes across as quite austere, and I am not sure the fruit will ever emerge from underneath the wine’s imposing structure. If it does, this bottling will merit a higher score but for now the balance seems to be missing. Pira’s Barolo is aged in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Blackberry and plum aromas follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and chocolate, mineral and fruit character. A little reserved and one-dimensional right now. Best after 2011. 1,200 cases made, 700 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Perfumed, but indistinct nose. Dry, powdery tannins over elegant, sweet fruit. Delicate and long. Very good.