Marc Morey 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles displays a pungent, vibratory intensity of citrus zest, bitter-sweet liquid iris perfume, and chalk dust playing against ripe peach and rich nuttiness. Here the generosity that characterizes most of the current collection finds an appropriate level of intrigue, along with a lift, elegance, and seamless, effortless refinement that transcends what went before. Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083