The 1994 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles offers a dense, honeyed, fruit cocktail-scented nose with toasty vanillin notes, full body, outstanding purity, and a chewy, creamy-textured, long, alcoholic finish. It should drink well for 5-6 years. Marc Morey is one of the finest producers in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. In top vintages his wines reveal excellent to outstanding concentration, creamy, honeyed textures, and a style not far removed from one of the great masters of white Burgundy, Michel Niellon. 1994 is a tricky vintage for white Burgundy, with the top wines concentrated and forward, yet their low acidity gives them a beguiling, flattering, up-front style. However, many wines do lack concentration as they were produced from over-cropped vineyards. Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579

Distinctive for its attractive, chewy, chalky texture; a mouthful of a wine, with mineral and floral qualities in its honey and pear flavors. Full-bodied and a bit soft. Drinkable now or try in 1997. 165 cases made. -