The 2008 Montevetrano is almost impossibly young at this stage. Loaded with the essence of black cherry liqueur, minerals and spices, the wine conquers the palate with layers of richly structured fruit. The 2008 is full of raw, vinous energy, yet it is possible to get a sense of the brilliant future that lies ahead from the way the wine continues to develop beautifully in the glass. In 2008 climactic conditions were much more normal than 2007, with a healthy alternation of temperatures that favored the development of expressive aromatics and firm structure. Today the 2008 looks to be a fabulous Montevetrano, but my sense is it is first headed for a period of stubbornness before it emerges once again. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Proprietor Silvia Imparato is one of the early pioneers in the world of Campanian oenology. Originally trained as a photographer, Imparato came to winemaking accidentally when one of her clients invited her to join a wine tasting group in Rome in the 1980s. Over the course of the following years, Imparato had the opportunity to taste many of the world’s great bottles on a regular basis. On a lark, she thought she would try to make wine at her family’s small estate in Salerno. She enlisted the help of consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella, and together they created Montevetrano, the wine that launched Campania in a big way around the world. This was the first complete vertical Imparato had ever hosted on this scale, and she was clearly moved by the occasion. All of the wines were shipped directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. The wines were opened a few hours before being served. It was a warm, humid summer day in New York and the wines were particularly radiant and expressive. Montevetrano is approximately 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico (the international varieties were planted on the existing Aglianico rootstocks) although the exact blend changes from year to year depending on vintage conditions. Imparato makes it clear she isn’t a big fan of giving the exact breakdown in each vintage, so readers should take the varietal blend as a rough guideline. Clearly there are a number of vintages where the Aglianico seems to come through with a much more assertive voice than 10% would lead one to believe. The harvest times vary greatly from Merlot to Aglianico, so the different grape varieties are harvested and vinified separately. Consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella fashions the final blend before the wines undergo malolactic fermentation. As opposed to Terra di Lavoro, which mostly sees malo in steel, here Cotarella feels more at ease doing the malos in oak as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are clearly more suited to this approach than Aglianico. Montevetrano was aged in 100% new oak until 1995, when the percentage of new barrels was dropped to 50%.

Dense yet tightly wound, with a dark core of black cherry, blackberry and plum framed by firm tannins. Hints of ash, espresso and bitter almond fill the grippy finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico. Best from 2012 through 2020. 2,500 cases made. -NW

This 60-30-10 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico blend from southern Italy delivers beautiful purity and intensity. Aromas here include blackberry, tobacco, leather, rum cake and polished black stone. It tastes firm and full on the palate and could use a few more years of cellar aging. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 92