The 2009 Montevetrano is quite possibly the most accessible young vintage of this wine I have ever tasted. I am accustomed to Montevetranos that are tight and austere, but not in 2009. In 2009 Montevetrano is open and radiant, with layers of dark fruit and a polished, well-articulated finish. The 2009 is likely to be an early drinker, but that doesn't necessarily mean the wine will age quickly. A complete vertical tasted last year and published in Issue 190 found the wines in great shape, including all of the earliest vintages. Montevetrano is approximately 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico that spent 12-14 months in French oak, 50% new. It remains a benchmark in southern Italian oenology. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2029. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Concentrated and polished, with a compact core of fresh crushed black cherry, blackberry and cassis. Silky tannins lead to layers of wild flowers, ash and iron that are slow to unfold on the long, focused finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico. Best from 2013 through 2023. 2,500 cases made. -NW