Domaine Ostertag Gewurztraminer Vignoble d'E, Alsace, France

安德烈酒莊E園瓊瑤漿干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：8099

Ostertag’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Vignoble d’E (“E” for “Epfig,”) smells like a butcher shop, with saline smoked meat and pate character following all the way across a glossy, oily palate and into a finish of slightly awkward sweetness. (Though when one returns to this after tasting the corresponding 2009, one is happily of its relative juiciness.) Classic litchi accompanies the carnal character throughout, as does an intriguing moss-like note. One can’t accuse this Gewurztraminer of heaviness, given the potential alcohol it sacrificed to its high residual sugar. Still, I find the overall effect a bit awkward and wonder what I would drink it with – which I would in any case do over the next 3-4 years. (If I could afford foie gras I would move up the quality scale to pick my sweet Gewurztraminer.) Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524