The 1998 Quinault l'Enclos has faded to a pale brick color and gives up mature notes of dried mulberries, raisin cake and prunes with touches of dried roses, star anise, incense, leather and dried mint. The medium to full-bodied palate reveals a wine at its peak or perhaps on the downward slide, depending on your preferred state of "maturity," offering powdery tannins and a lively line of acid to frame the earth and spice-inspired layers, finishing on a lingering aniseed note.

An elegant as well as powerful effort, this dense ruby/purple-colored 1998 reveals notes of plums, black raspberries, vanillin, minerals, licorice, and spice. Exceptionally rich with an outstanding texture, this medium to full-bodied wine possesses a distinctive, individualistic style, largely because of its floral, blueberry fruit flavors. Although accessible, it will age for two decades. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020.