The 1995 Barolo Riserva La Rocca e La Pira is delicate and graceful in its dried roses, tobacco, plums, cherries and herbs. The wine reveals gorgeous inner perfume, refined tannins and a remarkably vibrant personality considering it's nearly 15 years of age. This is another pristine Barolo from Roagna. The 1995 Barolo Riserva La Rocca e La Pira is made from vines that are more than 70 years old. The wine spent 12 years in barrel. Unfortunately there are only 900 bottles to go around. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035. Roagna is one of the most fascinating properties in Piedmont. The family owns small, but choice, plots in some of the region's best vineyards. The estate makes a wide range of wines, but the Barbarescos and Barolos are the highlights. In top vintages there can be as many as three selections of Barbaresco (Barbaresco Paje, Barbaresco Riserva Paje and Barbaresco Crichet Paje) and two of Barolo (Barolo La Rocca e La Pira, Barolo Riserva La Rocca e La Pira). The wines are fermented in oak vats and remain on the skins until mid-December, after which they are aged in oak barrels for as many as a dozen years prior to being bottled. This year Roagna has three new wines; a Barbera made from vines in the La Rocca e La Pira vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, and small-production Barbarescos from the Asili and Montefico vineyards. Among the many highlights are the 2003 Barolo La Rocca e La Pira and Barbaresco Paje, which are both exceptional (there were no Riservas made that year), the 2004 Barbera d-Alba, the 2004 Barbaresco Asili, the 1995 Barolo Riserva La Rocca e La Pira and the 2000 Barbaresco Crichet Paje. As readers can deduce, the wines are usually released later than most and can be hard to find, but they are increasingly worth the effort. Quality has never been higher here, and as I have written before, Luca Roagna is one of Piedmont's most promising young producers. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191