A steak lover’s Cab made in an old-school style, sturdy but not brash. Has its share of oak, to be sure, but it’s the “dry tannins and black pepper flavors” kind, not the toast-and-nut route. Red plum and cherry fruit are at its firm core. Enjoyable and traditional. Imported by Pan Pacific Wines.——D.T.(8/1/2006)—— 91